DIY - Homemade Stocks and broth

Article by Dani Lind, Produce Manager

The conservator in me has rarely been so pleased as the first time I ever made homemade chicken stock out of the leftover carcass of a roasted chicken I raised myself and vegetable scraps from the garden.  Except maybe making a big batch of turkey stock from the salvaged remains of my in-laws’ Thanksgiving dinner! 

Making homemade stock – in addition to being an excellent foundation for great food and nutrition - is one of those deeply satisfying activities that can fulfill one’s deepest desire for efficiency and conservation.  “Waste not, want not” is stock’s motto, and my freezer is never in want of jars and jars of it (each chicken carcass yields 3 or 4 quarts of stock!).  It’s easy, cheap, wholesome, and delicious – yet most people have never made it because the premade stuff is just so convenient.  But try it and you’ll never want that watery broth/stock in a box ever again!

Before continuing, let’s talk stock vs. broth – what’s the difference anyway?  In our country, there’s often times not much of a difference, especially in the boxed/canned stuff.  Most agree that, technically speaking, stock is made with lots of bones, some meat, vegetables (classically celery, onion, carrots), and herbs (classically parsley, thyme, bay) simmered in water for many hours, releasing the gelatin stored in the bones and connective tissue of the meat, making it thick and hearty. Often times the bones and vegetables are roasted first to bring out extra flavor and color.

The definition of broth is hazier, but typically it’s more delicate than stock and made with more meat, less bones (or is vegetarian altogether) and isn’t cooked quite as long.  Some will say there’s no such thing as vegetarian “stock”, only broth, or that stock should only be used for sauces and gravies while broth is only for soup…  Whatever you call it, all I know is that you can take a whole bunch of waste materials, simmer them gently for hours, and make magic.  Here are the basics:

1. If you’re a meat eater: collect whatever meat/bone scraps you can. You can hold them in the fridge for a couple days or in the freezer for weeks.  This can include leftover chicken, turkey, or duck carcasses; bones from your steak dinner or roast; undesirable raw meat parts – chicken necks, feet, and wings, organ meats, beef or veal shin bones or shoulders.  If you eat a lot of bone-in meat, it won’t be hard to collect enough for a big batch of stock every month or so.  Otherwise you can buy soup bones, chicken necks and wings cheap from local butchers.  Or ask friends and family to save you scraps!
2. Collect vegetable and herb scraps – celery/celeriac leaves and trimmings, onion/garlic/scallion trimmings, carrot/parsnip ends and peels, leek leaves, mushroom stems, tomato trimmings, ginger peels, parsley/thyme/rosemary stems. Whole peppercorns and a few whole cloves are nice, too. You can use just about anything else you can think of, but I’m not too fond of brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.) in there.
3. Always start with the meat/bones in enough cold water to cover them. Slowly bring to a simmer, skim off any scum that appears, and then add the vegetables and herbs. Depending on the stock you’re making, let it lightly simmer (never boil!) for an hour up to 8 hours.  Longer cooking should be partially covered and you can let it go on low overnight, or on an active woodstove.
4. Never bring your stock to a rolling boil!  Keep it at a low simmer or it may become bitter, boil over, and/or evaporate too much.
5. Don’t salt your stock. Wait until making your finished product.
6. When done simmering, strain into another pot and let it cool a bit.  Pour into desired containers (I like wide mouth pint and quart canning jars for easy removal partially thawed out of the freezer).  Fat will settle on the top of meat stocks, where you can remove it if you wish (and use it for cooking if you wish!).  Refrigerate for up to five days or freeze for a long time.

Here are some basic types of stock, but don’t be afraid to create mutts:

• Chicken stock – bones and meaty bits (either raw or leftover cooked) are simmered with vegetables and herbs for 4-8 hours. Great for gravies, stews, soups, and casseroles.
• Chicken broth – raw chicken (mostly meat), vegetables, and herbs are simmered for 2-4 hours.  Delicious as a soup base.
• Brown stock – beef (or veal if you can get it) bones (legs and shoulders have the most gelatin-forming connective tissue) and veggies are roasted then simmered with a bit of tomato paste and herbs for 4-8 hours.  A great stock for sauces, gravies, stews, and to use for braising.
• Ham stock – ham hocks, vegetables, and herbs are simmered for 2-4 hours. Perfect for Cajun or Southern food or pea soup.
• Fish stock – fish bones/trimmings and/or shrimp peels/tails are simmered with onion/garlic trimmings and herbs for only 30-45 minutes.  Stinky to make but scrumptious in seafood soups and chowders and Asian food (divine in Thai coconut soup).
• Dashi – a classic Japanese broth made by simmering kelp and bonito fish flakes for just a few minutes. Use in all sorts of Japanese dishes and miso soup.
• Vegetable broth – vegetable and herb scraps (see suggestions on step 3 above) are simmered for 1-2 hours. Great in soups, stews, sauces, and casseroles.  Won’t thicken dishes like meat stocks will but adds lots of flavor.

Happy stock-making this winter!